Chemical Peel Benefits Before And After Acne

There’s never a clean breakup with acne. Even when flare-ups have gone, there may still be a variety of scars left to remind us of a not so amazing time.

While time can heal these marks, there are several expert-approved methods to address speed time on your schedule. One of the popular methods is the chemical peel.

A peek into the potential benefits chemical peels can have on acne-prone skin include:

• smoother texture and tone
• lightening of dark spots
• unclogging of pores to help prevent future breakouts

“Chemical peels work by removing the top layer of skin, allowing new, healthy skin to present,” says Deanne Mraz Robinson, MD, FAAD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Yale New Haven Hospital and co-creator of Pure BioDerm.

“Overall, chemical peels can be a great way to maintain and rejuvenate the skin,” she says.

“[These] are more effective at exfoliation than physical exfoliators (topical scrubs, for example). The trauma inflicted by the chemical not only kills and removes dead skin cells at the surface, but the intentional damage caused also stimulates the body’s natural response to produce collagen, which can help fill in scars.”

As a rule of thumb, chemical peels might not be the best for severe raised or depressed scars.

NOT ALL SCARS ARE EQUAL

Scars develop during the healing process when the skin acts fast and sends cells to form new collagen fibers or attack infections. As a result, this can create hypertrophic scars or atrophic scars. Hypertrophic scars are bumpy, raised tissues on the surface of the skin that occur after the body produces too much collagen when healing. Atrophic scars are depressed scars that develop when there’s a loss of tissue. Ice pick or boxcar scars fall in this category.

Picking the right type of chemical peel may not be an easy task, especially when a solution can go wrong and be too harsh. But knowledge is protection.

Read on to learn what kind of chemical peels are safe to try at home, which ones need a dermatologist’s guidance, how often you’ll need a peel, and so much more.

CAN A CHEMICAL PEEL WORSEN YOUR ACNE SCARS?

This is a tricky question, because chemical peels don’t intensify existing scarring, but they can cause scarring if something goes wrong. So the answer is no, a chemical peel won’t make your acne scars worse. But, if a chemical peel is improperly administered, things can go wrong and cause new scarring. There are a lot of things you can do to avoid the risk of this unsightly side effect, however. The best thing you can do for your skin in the case of any cosmetic treatment is to only visit a dermatologist. Health spas and at-home kits may promise great results and lower prices, but that all comes with a big cost. Spas and kits are products. Their goal is to make money from you.

What happens to your skin is not their primary concern. A dermatologist, on the other hand, is trained in proper techniques and is also focused primarily on your health. If you have a contraindication for a chemical peel, a spa may not even ask questions to detect it. For instance, a chemical peel can treat acne scars, but if you take the acne drug isotretinoin, it greatly increases the odds of scarring with a chemical peel. Even if you haven’t taken the drug in six months, the possibility is there. A dermatologist will have your medical history. They’ll know the proper questions to ask if you’re a new patient.

A chemical peel can result in scarring if things go wrong. It’s a possible side effect that is exceptionally rare, especially when performed by a licensed dermatologist. Don’t hesitate to share your concerns with your doctor. They can start you on the most gentle peels to see how your skin will react. They can make recommendations for properly caring for skin leading up to and following a chemical peel. Know this: a chemical peel works on acne scars for most people. It can help your skin heal better than it would on its own, thereby reducing the appearance of scars significantly.

Chemical peels can enhance your self-esteem while also improving the appearance of your skin. Scars, acne, and uneven skin tone may all be reduced, allowing you to feel more confident in your appearance. It’s reasonable to wonder, however, if this treatment could harm your skin because of the word “chemical.” Perhaps you’re concerned that it will make your acne scars worse. Well, read on to learn more about chemical peels, such as what they are and the effect they may have on your acne scars before scheduling an appointment.

There are three types of peels: superficial, medium, and deep. The type used during your treatment depends mostly on the severity of your skin condition as well as your overall skin sensitivity. With this being the case, it’s rather unlikely that your licensed dermatologist will recommend a chemical peel that will be harmful to you, or more specifically, make your acne scars worse.

Chemical peels remove the outer layer of skin thanks to a chemical reaction between your skin cells and the acids in the peel. This allows a smoother, untouched under layer of skin that hasn’t been harmed by acne to appear.

In other words, chemical peels actually remove acne scars, not add to them!

There are various advantages to getting a professional chemical peel for acne scars. Of course you will see a reduced appearance of your scars, but you may also find that your skin is brighter, you may have fewer wrinkles, previous dark spots are now gone, and you have a more even skin tone.

As we mentioned, professional chemical peels are effective on varying skin issues. Since the chemical solution is customized for your skin during a professional treatment, the danger of problems is reduced significantly.

Pre- Chemical Peel Instructions

• Avoid using any alpha hydroxy acid products (such as glycol or lactic acid) or salicylic acid products for 72 hours before your peel
• If you use Accutane,  discontinue for a year prior to the chemical peel
• Avoid retinol, tretinoin cream (Retin-A), waxing, electrolysis, masks, scrubs or exfoliants, tweezing, injections, microdermabrasion, the use of loofah or any products that may be drying or irritating
• Do not shave face the day of the peel
• If you have open lesions, active cold sores, facial dermatitis or facial irruption you are not a good candidate for the peel till after it has completely healed

Chemical peel post care for acne

• Avoid any aerobic exercise or vigorous physical activity for the first 48 hours
• Use of sunscreen with SPF 30 or greater at all times for at least a week after your peel. It is recommended that you continue to use these products to help protect your skin and maintain the benefits of the peel even after your initial week
• Avoid direct sun exposure. Too much sun exposure may cause improper healing and in some cases may reverse the benefits of the peel.
• Treat the skin gently- DO NOT Exfoliate-  thought you may experience mildy red, dry, or flaking skin for several days or more after your peel.
• Do not pick or pull at peeling skin. The dead will naturally slough off.
• Avoid alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids products, retinoids, retinols and facial products containing fragrance for a few days after.
• Consult with your Esthetician on when it is safe to go back to your normal home care regimen

The benefits of chemical peels on acne

For the best results, your dermatologist will perform several peels over several weeks. Deep chemical peels happen once and require an extended healing period. After the full treatment, chemical peels remove damaged skin and clears up your acne. There are some hidden extras in your chemical peel too. For instance, your peel will improve the absorption of future topical treatments you’ll use to keep your acne at bay.

Chemical peels also reduce pore size and may decrease sebum production, the oil that causes acne. That means long-term, you’ll get fewer acne breakouts. And who wouldn’t love a fresh new face? In addition, clearing up your acne brings back your confidence in ways you did not think were possible.

Acne treatment with chemical peel

After your initial consultation, we will decide on the type of peel that’s best to treat your acne. In the weeks leading up to your first chemical peel, you may be prescribed topical medication to prepare the skin for your peel. These could be a combination of hydroquinone and tretinoin, along with lower strength alpha-hydroxy acids. Follow all instructions before your peel, such as avoiding excess sun exposure, makeup, and exfoliating.

On the day of your treatment, your dermatologist or aesthetician will first cleanse your face. Then, the prepared chemical solution is placed on the face with an applicator, making sure to avoid your hair and eyes. After the peel stays on for a few minutes, the chemical is deactivated with a neutralizer to prevent burning. The total process takes less than 20 minutes. For deeper peels, the process can take a bit longer. For the best results, you will need a series of chemical peels over 2 to 3 months.

Chemical peel process for acne scars

Most often, your treatment will be performed by a licensed skincare professional in your plastic surgeon’s office or medical spa. Peels involve the application of a chemical solution to your entire face or just to certain regions, such as the crow’s feet area around your eyes or the vertical wrinkles around your mouth.

The chemical solution is either applied lightly or rubbed more vigorously onto the skin being treated using a sponge, cotton pad, swab, or brush (avoiding your brows, eyes and lips). During peel application, you may experience a slight tingling (light to medium peels) or a burning sensation (deep peels). These sensations are usually minimal for light and medium peels but are more severe for deep peels. The length of time the solution is allowed to work is determined by carefully observing the changes in the appearance of your skin. With certain types of chemical peels, the solution may be “neutralized” after an appropriate amount of time has elapsed.

The different types of chemical peels vary according to their specific ingredients and their strength. The depth of their peeling action may also be determined by factors such as how long they remain on the skin and how they are applied onto the skin.

No covering or after-peel ointment is necessary after a light or medium peel and you can expect little to no downtime. However, after a deep peel, a thick coating of petroleum jelly or other protective ointment is layered over the face, covering the protective crust that develops rapidly over the area. This stays in place for one to two days. In some cases, dressings, tape or a bandage may be applied (this is particularly effective in cases of severe wrinkling). A deep peel requires a longer recuperation period.

Chemical peels exfoliate dead cells and can improve texture, acne, sun damage and congested pores. Deeper peels can address wrinkles and uneven skin tone.

Which chemical peel is good for acne?

Your doctor will perform either a superficial or medium-depth peel to treat your acne. Superficial peels can help mild acne, improves your skin texture and tone. Medium peels will help moderate to severe acne scars, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Your superficial peel can be one of the following:

• Glycolic acid: Belonging to a group of alpha-hydroxy acids, glycolic acid is perfect for superficial peels. It helps with exfoliation while increasing collagen production. Glycolic acid also reduces inflammation and works on all skin types. The superficial peel will start at 20% strength.
• Salicylic acid: This is a beta-hydroxy acid naturally sourced from willow tree bark that can provide deep exfoliation while treating acne. It can also improve hydration, keeping your pores clear for longer, which means fewer breakouts. 
• Jessner’s Solution: This is a combination of lactic acid (14%), salicylic acid (14%), and resorcinol (14%).
• Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid that provides a light peel of the epidermis. This acid can be combined with others for a more effective treatment.
• Mandelic Acid: This is another alpha-hydroxy acid that helps with exfoliation and is perfect for mild to moderate acne. Studies show that mandelic acid also contains antibacterial properties. In some cases, your dermatologist will combine mandelic acid with salicylic acid.
• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA): A specially made acid that can be used to perform peels at all levels.

Medium peels can fall under one of the following:

• TCA between 35% to 40%
• Glycolic acid at 35% or higher

Or a combination of acids to create a more effective solution.

What about deep peels?

Some patients are candidates for deep chemical peels. These candidates will have severe cystic acne or deep acne scars. Deep peels contain phenol or TCA beyond 50%. Phenol, in particular, is known for its ability to treat deep-seated acne and acne scars. If you’re a candidate for a deep peel, follow your doctor’s instructions for the best results.

Aftercare and possible side effects.

Your dermatologist will also provide aftercare treatment and instructions to support healing and accelerate results. These include:

• Applying sunscreen and moisturizers as often as possible.
• Your skin may appear a bit worse before it gets better.
• Using the prescribed topical treatments to maintain skin health.
• Avoid wearing makeup, tanning, or excess sun exposure for at least 48 hours.
• Avoid intense physical activity for at least 24 hours.
• You’ll feel tempted to pick or pull at your skin when it peels. Picking your skin can cause irritation or transfer dirt from your hands to your face.

We will recommend additional treatment for deep acne scars, which can include laser therapy, medication (steroid injections or retinol), microneedling, and much more.

Who should get chemical peels?

Anyone who wants to get a brighter, even glowing complexion should get a peel. If you have a history of keloids or very sensitive skin, be sure to let your dermatologist know this.

And who shouldn’t get a peel?

Despite the effectiveness of chemical peels, the procedure is not for everyone. Based on your medical history, we’ll determine if this is the best route to deal with acne. Reasons you should not get a chemical peel include:

• A current or previous bacterial or fungal infection
• Taking medication to treat these infections
• Patients who’ve used a prescription medication to treat acne within the last year
• A history of irregular scarring, or keloids 
• Current immune-related diseases
• Patients who are pregnant or breastfeeding should avoid peels just to be safe.
• Patients with unrealistic expectations about the process may not be good candidates. You may need a holistic approach that includes multiple peels. For most patients, a completely acne-free face would not happen after one peel.

Make sure to raise any concerns before attempting a chemical peel. your dermatologist will advise you if the peel is right for you and provide alternatives if it’s not the right fit.

A note about skin of color

Regardless of your skin type or color, you can suffer from acne. When it comes to chemical peels, however, special considerations must be made for patients of color. There is a common misconception that darker skin tones should not get chemical peels. Because of the excess melanin production, some chemical peels expose these skin types to a condition called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Dermatologists are becoming more and more equipped to deal with skin of all shades. For darker skin types, we will stick to superficial peels. You’ll likely get one of the following peels:

• A glycolic acid peel at 20% concentration
• A salicylic acid peel at 20% concentration
• TCA between 10% and 30%
• Jessner’s solution
• A combination of other acids such as mandelic acid or lactic acid.

Dermatologists will start at the lowest concentrations possible, slowly working up to stronger peels to gauge the skin’s reaction. Patients with lighter skin tones can benefit from medium peels. However, deep peels are not suitable for dark skin. These peels can cause significant damage to the skin. Follow the advice of your dermatologist for the best acne treatment for dark skin.

Tackle your acne with a chemical peel today

Acne can put a damper on the quality of your life. Some patients deal with acne as teenagers, well into their adult years. Luckily, you can treat acne with a chemical peel when applied correctly. These peels remove dead skin at the epidermis and dermis levels. The result is smooth, acne-free skin. From there, you’ll continue to treat your skin with any prescribed medication and visit your dermatologist for maintenance peels.