Chemical peels are a great way to improve the look, feel, and texture of your skin. They can be used on all skin types, but they’re particularly good for aging or damaged skin. Your skin has three layers: The epidermis is the outermost layer and protects your body from external factors like UV rays and bacteria. The dermis is the inner layer and contains blood vessels, nerves, hair follicles, sweat glands, sebaceous glands (which produce oil), and collagen fibers. The hypodermis is the deepest layer; it contains fat cells and acts as padding for your body.
When you undergo a chemical peel procedure, a special solution called an exfoliant is applied to your skin so that it will shed away from its surface while leaving new skin cells intact underneath. This process helps reduce fine lines around the eyes or mouth area by removing dead skin cells that have built up over time on the surface layer of your face or neck area (depending on where you apply them). Chemical peels also help reduce acne scarring by reducing inflammation in those areas of your face where rosacea has caused redness or bumps on your cheeks or chin area because it removes dead
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What to know about chemical peel yourself
Chemical peels are one of the most popular cosmetic procedures that patients avail themselves of today. Chemical peels can give your skin a healthy, “just refreshed” look, or can be aggressive, taking years off of your appearance.
Epidermal cells are anchored together in two ways. Microscopic fibers called tonofilaments run between individual cells, helping anchor them together. An extracellular surrounds each cell, acting as a sort of “glue” to further keep cells together. Over time, these cells are invisibly shed through the body’s natural means of exfoliation. Speeding up this process can instantly restore a more youthful glow to the skin and address other subtle signs of the aging process.
Whereas microdermabrasion breaks the tonofilaments through the act of physical exfoliation, chemical peels work to dissolve the “glue.” One of the most frequent questions is which procedure is better? The answer is that each works well, but neither provides a thorough exfoliation when used alone. That is why incorporating both treatments into a regimen can produce a much more satisfying result.
Skye Aesthetics blends a chemical peel with microdermabrasion. The buffered glycolic, lactic, salicylic and azelaic acids dissolve the “glue” that hold the epidermal cells together. Calming, soothing anti-irritant botanicals reduce the redness and sensitivity typically associated with either a chemical peel or microdermabrasion. A self-destructing synthetic microdermabrasion particle breaks the microscopic fibers anchoring skin cells together. We favor synthetic particles as they are fully smooth and unlikely to abrade the skin. Natural particles; salt, sugar, ground pits or shells and mineral dusts are like snowflakes. Each is unique with tiny jagged edges that can scratch up or irritate the skin. It’s a single step. Just apply it to dry or slightly damp skin, scrub and rinse. Please note that regardless of your chosen form of peel or microdermabrasion, exfoliation thins the epidermis, making it more vulnerable to sunburn. I always reccomend the use of a broad spectrum SPF 30 daily.
Are you considering an in-office chemical peel? Just like other cosmetic procedurs, there is a wide range of chemical combinations, strengths and techniques used that can make it overwhelming to decide which is best for you.
Physicians typically guide the patient to the most appropriate type and level of chemical peel to address the problem and yield a satisfying result. What’s realistic? What isn’t? What can you do for yourself? And finally, what should your doctor do that your aesthetician shouldn’t? Let’s find out.
Realistic Goals Of Chemical Peels
- Chemical peels can correct actinic (sun) damage.
- They can reduce mild scarring.
- You can experience a reduction or eradication of your wrinkles.
- Improvement of dark skin discoloration is possible.
- Chemical peels can remove excessive / stubborn blackheads.
- The peel may temporarily reduce excessive skin oils.
Unrealistic Goals Of Chemical Peels
- It cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin.
- It is impossible to truly change pore diameter. However, by removing blackheads, the pores may actually appear less pronounced after treatment.
- This is not a procedure to get rid of keloidal types of scars.
- Chemical peels are not a facelift.
- This is typically not appropriate for improving dark skin discoloration in people of color (Asians, African Americans, Caucasians of Mediterranean extraction, Hispanics, etc.)
There are a variety of different chemicals used for the purpose of rejuvenating the skin in what are called “chemical peels.” The main reason to select an active agent is based upon the desired depth of the chemical peel. If the skin concern is predominantly superficial, then a milder, less caustic ingredient is selected. If deeply placed conditions exist, then far stronger products with matching levels of potential complications may be necessary.
Chemical peeling agents that perform mild or moderate peels typically provide a safer peel that has less associated long-term side effects. These peels work on the epidermis and possibly the most superficial portion of the dermis (known as the papillary dermis).
Deeper peels go midway into the dermal layer (into the reticular dermis), almost invariably leaving a permanently lighter skin tone. Instead of being able to tan as in the past, this lighter skin often freckles instead. These deeper peels should not be undertaken lightly, and you need to make sure in advance that the peel technique will be feathered into the scalp line and performed down the neck, possibly even the decollettage, or you may find that you have a highly noticeable line demarcating your original skin tone and the new one that is on the face.
Active ingredients used alone or in combination for mild to moderate strength chemical peels
- Glycolic Acid(AHA)
- Salicylic Acid (BHA)
- Lactic Acid
- Jessner’s Peel (a combination of salicyclic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid mixed in ethanol)
- Resorcinol
- TCA (Trichloracetic Acid)
Active ingredients used in deep chemical peels
- Baker’s Phenol
What do chemical peels do?The outer portion of the skin (epidermis) is composed of multiple layers of epidermal cells. These cells provide a barrier against the environment, protecting deeper, more delicate tissues, maintain an even internal temperature and also prevent against dehydration.
THE FOUR LEVELS OF PEELING
The ingredient and concentration obviously play a very big role in determining the ultimate depth of the chemical peel. However, other variables can make a difference such as whether a pre-peel de-fatting prep was performed, the amount of chemical applied, and the length of time the chemical was allowed to stay on the skin.
Another important factor is which area will be treated. The variations in skin thickness can affect the ultimate peel outcome. For instance, the face usually heals far more rapidly and typically experiences far fewer complications (such as discoloration, scar formation and infection) than areas such as the backs of the hands or neck. And regardless of what type or depth of peel used, exfoliation always increases one’s sun sensitivity. Always wear a broad spectrum SPF 30 when using any type of chemical or physical exfoliation.
Very Superficial:
This really isn’t a true peel, more of an exfoliation. The most superficial layers of the stratum corneum (at the top of the epidermis) is removed or thinned during exfoliation. Most chemical peels have a preoperative regimen of using exfoliating agents such as Renova, Tazorac or a strong glycolic acid cream for 2-4 weeks prior to the actual procedure. This helps the chemical peeling agents penetrate more deeply and evenly. The use of these exfoliants also has the obvious benefit of smoothing out thickened rough areas, helping self tanners go on more evenly and helping other skin rejuvenation products reach deeper tissues. Additionally, there has been good evidence that vitamin A exfoliants can help stimulate collagen deposition.
Superficial:
Superficial chemical peels remove skin through a portion or all of the epidermal layer. These are the “refreshing” forms of skin peels. They can also help with reducing the appearance of very mild blotchy skin discoloration, remnant acne discoloration and help cleanse the pores. This is the most common form of peel that you would find performed in a spa or by an aesthetician. And typically they would only utilize glycolic, AHA blends or BHA as the active ingredients. True peels with higher levels of glycolic acid (30% or higher) or those containing TCA, resorcinol or Jessner’s ideally would be performed in a medical setting.
Examples of chemicals used for a superficial peel include: TCA 10-20%, Resorcin, Jessner’s Solution, Salicylic Acid, Solid CO2 (also known as dry ice), AHAs (Glycolic and Lactic Acid).
Home peel kits tend to fall somewhere between very superficial and superficial. They can be excellent for helping freshen skin, eliminate blackheads, improve symptoms of oiliness and/or acne and renew texture. Home peels usually rely upon very low levels of glycolic acid (AHA) or blend with salicylic acid (BHA). Guestimate that total levels of actives will fall somewhere in the 4-12% total acid level range when looking at an average do-it-yourself products. Certainly chemical peels for home use in the 30+ range should be approached with care. Glycolic acid at 30% enters into potential medium level peel, particularly if misused.
Acid is acid, so anytime a peel regimen is used at home, it is important to follow the directions. Acids are neutralized during the routine to stop their action. This prevents inflammation, discoloration or chemical burns from occurring. Most mainstream brands have been thoroughly tested and have well proven safety records. But “rogue” peels without any major brand behind them may be suspect. Skye Aesthetics has periodically received frantic consumer calls about problems experienced with “no-name” chemical peels purchased online or through an infomercial. So it always boils down to buyer beware and use with care.
While fun to try, we have personally found that using a multi-step system doesn’t fit in with our hectic lifestyle. Between the kids, the job, the house and the husband, somehow there is just no time for me. Add in the fact that a chemical peel does not provide a thorough exfoliation, and our medical inclination is to combine both chemical peel with microdermabrasion.
Medium:
Here’s our personal cut off point that distinguishes medically performed peels from those offered in a spa, by an aesthetician or facialist. A medium strength chemical peel allows the acid to penetrate through the epidermis, down into the upper most portion of the dermis known as the papillary dermis. A medium strength peel will be far more likely to be associated with complications, both temporary and permanent.
In addition to the pre-peel use of exfoliants, the use of a skin bleaching agent, such as 4% hydroquinone, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen a month prior to the procedure, may be added for more aggressive forms of these peels, or for patients who already suffer from some form of skin discoloration. Inflammation from this level peel may temporarily produce an increase in skin tone. Medium peels are typically not appropriate for people with darker skin tones or of ethnic background, again due to the risk of irregular pigmentation following the procedure.
Dealing with infection preventatively is key here. For non-buffered glycolic acid and more commonly TCA peels, the use of antiviral medication (herpes cold sore prevention) started before the peel is performed is very helpful. The use of antibiotics is sometimes also used. It is absolutely CRUCIAL that you not pick at the peeling skin during the healing phase. This is a sure way to end up with an infection and long lasting problems such as scarring or skin discoloration.
Buffered glycolic acid chemical peels that range from 70-99% do not cause the type of significant noticeable peeling that you can see with TCA peels such as AccuPeel. However, a series of 6-12 buffered glycolic acid peels compared to usually 1 of the AccuPeel is typically performed. Skin sensitivity, degree of skin concerns, time down, and cost will determine which form of peel should be chosen.
A variety of acid compounds can be used for a medium peel: Glycolic Acid 70%+ (non-buffered), TCA 35-70%, combination peels such as solid CO2, (also called dry ice), followed by medium strength TCA, and glycolic acid followed by TCA.
Deep:
This peel goes through the epidermis, papillary dermis and into the deeper portion of the dermis known as the reticular dermis. These peels are not a simple procedure. Absorption of the active ingredient, phenol, has been known to cause cardiac arrest and even death. Patients who undergo phenol peels should be placed under general anesthesia and on full cardiac and pulmonary monitoring.
A phenol peel unquestionably requires a medical setting where emergency back-up is available should anything go wrong. An anesthesiologist should be present, and preferably have this procedure done in a surgical setting, not just a room adjacent to the doctor’s office. The down time from this procedure is obviously the longest, 2-3 weeks is generally required before you want to be seen in public. Due to the depth of the peel leaving deeper tissue exposed, there is an increase in photosensitivity to the sun.
Examples of ingredients used in deep peels include: Baker’s phenol alone or under occlusion by tape. The tape drives the phenol deeper into the skin.
looking for magic or simply the ideal home treatment to maximize your rejuvenation routine, chemical peels are undoubtedly here to stay. Whatever the reason, always follow the directions. Doing so will help get the most from your treatment and minimize problems down the road.
Chemical peel at home for hyperpigmentation
If you’ve ever been hesitant to reach for a chemical exfoliant to help fade unwanted hyperpigmentation, there’s a good reason. “In general, chemical peels are intentionally irritating and not essential to balanced skin, unless indicated otherwise by a board-certified dermatologist for things like acne vulgaris or melasma,” dermatologist Dr. Ellen Marmur tells Elite Daily, adding, “Self-directed treatment is rife with overdoing it.” When needed, the best at-home chemical peels for hyperpigmentation contain a lower concentration of chemical exfoliants to lessen the chance of irritation. “If you’ve ever experienced hyperpigmentation, as I have in my 20s from patches of melasma on my upper lip and face, you want to do anything bionic to remove it,” Dr. Marmur says of her own experience. “But slow and steady is the only way to conquer hyperpigmentation, so be patient,” she advises, while stressing the importance of checking in with your dermatologist before using any at-home chemical exfoliants.
In addition to taking things slow and consulting with a professional, Dr. Marmur advises that it’s best not to exceed a concentration of 5% of the active ingredient in question. “Mandelic acid and tranexamic acid tend to be slow and steady for hyperpigmentation treatment at home, along with proper sun protection and LED green light,” shares Dr. Marmur. She also adds that other AHAs and BHAs, like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, are popular when it comes to at-home chemical treatments for hyperpigmentation.
As for the delivery method, Dr. Marmur confirms that mechanical exfoliants, like scrubs, should be avoided because they can worsen hyperpigmentation. “Liquids and serums applied and massaged into the skin with your fingertips work much better than pads, which increase waste,” she adds. “Never brush, scrub, or rub chemical exfoliants on skin that’s prone to excess pigment because this will backfire and put you back at square one,” she stresses. “Baby your skin, protect it well, and let your derm help you in your journey against hyperpigmentation.”
Keep scrolling to shop five of the best at-home treatments for hyperpigmentation, from serums to cleansers to face masks.
1. Best Tranexamic Acid Serum For Hyperpigmentation
Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%
AMAZON
Tranexamic acid is typically a well-tolerated ingredient when it comes to fading unwanted hyperpigmentation and preventing new dark spots from forming. Naturium’s Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% gives you a potent concentration of the active ingredient, while other effective brightening ingredients like kojic acid, licorice root extract, and niacinamide bolster the acid’s skin-evening effects. This combination makes it one of the best hyperpigmentation treatments you can buy for $20 — while plenty of hydrating ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid prevent it from drying out your skin.
2. Best AHA Serum For Hyperpigmentation
Honest Beauty Resurfacing Serum
AMAZON
Honest Beauty’s Resurfacing Serum combines three AHAs to target unwanted hyperpigmentation: Glycolic, lactic, and citric acids. Additional ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe leaf juice all work to soothe and hydrate skin, while niacinamide offers double the skin care benefits by helping to treat hyperpigmentation and calm inflammation. At less than $25, it’s a great entry point into the world of chemical exfoliants. For best results, use it at night and don’t forget to apply sunscreen the next morning (as is the case with any AHA product).
3. Best BHA Exfoliant For Hyperpigmentation
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
AMAZON
Among the 40,000-plus five-star ratings on Amazon, you’ll find dozens of reviews that specifically mention how helpful Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is when it comes to treating hyperpigmentation. The tried-and-true formula uses a 2% concentration of salicylic acid to clear out congested pores and exfoliate dead skin cells, while green tea extract soothes and provides antioxidant protection. Because of salicylic acid’s pore-clearing benefits, this is a great choice if your primary skin concerns are hyperpigmentation and acne or blackheads.
Though it doesn’t have nearly as many Amazon reviews, the brand’s Discoloration Repair Serum, which features tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and bakuchiol extract, is another solid pick for treating hyperpigmentation.
4. Best Exfoliating Mask For Hyperpigmentation
Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel Full Strength Exfoliating Mask
AMAZON
If you like to use the occasional skin-pampering mask, Juice Beauty’s Green Apple Peel Full Strength Exfoliating Mask gives you a powerful chemical treatment in just 10 minutes. AHAs in the form of malic, glycolic, and lactic acids combine with the BHA salicylic acid to slough away dead skin cells and even out your skin. Bakuchiol and vitamin C give you more skin-brightening benefits, and aloe leaf juice, grape seed extract, and glycerin help with hydration. Though the mask is formulated with mostly naturally derived ingredients (many of which are organic), it still has the potential to cause irritation. Because of this, the brand suggests doing a patch test on your arm before putting the mask on your face.
5. Best Splurge
Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
AMAZON
This multi-purpose treatment can be used as a leave-on serum morning or night, or as a 15-minute mask that you rinse off if your skin is hyper-sensitive. Sunday Riley’s Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment is a cult favorite for its ability to improve the clarity and texture of your skin, while still being pretty gentle. In addition to the AHA lactic acid, licorice root extract works to brighten skin and fade unwanted hyperpigmentation, while soothing and hydrating ingredients like squalane, arnica, aloe leaf, and prickly pear keep the formula balanced. It offers both immediate and long-term benefits, and has a lightweight texture that layers under other products beautifully.
You May Also Like
Dermalogica Daily Glycolic Cleanser
AMAZON
Though not exactly a peel, a cleanser with chemical exfoliants, like Dermalogica’s Daily Glycolic Cleanser, is a great place to start because the active ingredient gets rinsed right off (as opposed to treatments and serums that are left on and therefore pose a higher risk of irritation). This cleanser uses glycolic acid to exfoliate away dead skin cells, the buildup of which can contribute to hyperpigmentation. You’ll also find jojoba seed oil, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, calendula, and allantoin in here to help condition skin and calm any signs of irritation.
At home chemical peel vs professional
Dullness. Dark spots. Acne scars. Fine lines and wrinkles. What do all of these skin concerns have in common? They can be treated with medical-grade chemical peels. Depending on your aesthetic goals and needs, chemical peels are available in an array of potencies and have the ability to resurface the skin for more even tone and texture. For those looking to achieve glow-inducing results at-home, less concentrated chemical exfoliators can slough away dead skin cells for a more radiant complexion. Here, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about in-office chemical peels and at-home chemical exfoliators.
What Is a Chemical Peel?
Professional chemical peels employ chemical solutions of varying strengths to target and remove the outer layers of the skin. “The benefits of a medical-grade chemical peel are endless,” says Lizette Ludwig, RN, an aesthetic nurse and injector in southern California. As she explains, they are a good option for anyone looking to address skin imperfections. “Chemical peels allow you to remove dead skin cells and address fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone in a safe and effective way,” she shares.
Professional chemical peels can be broken down into three categories:
- Superficial chemical peels
- Medium chemical peels
- Deep chemical peels
These classifications are based on the potency of the peels and the ingredients used in the chemical solution. “Ingredients found in medical-grade peels usually include alpha hydroxy acids (lactic acid and glycolic acid), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and phenol,” Ludwig says. Below is an overview of each:
SUPERFICIAL CHEMICAL PEELS
The lightest and gentlest of the group, superficial chemical peels remove the epidermis (i.e. top layer of the skin) and are generally tolerated by most skin tones. “These peels are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, but they can also include enzymes or other natural exfoliating ingredients,” Ludwig notes. Because they focus on the epidermis, superficial peels provide a slight improvement to the skin and usually require a series of treatments for best results. Some mild dryness and flaking are a part of the healing process and can last for three to five days.
MEDIUM CHEMICAL PEELS
Falling in the middle of the scale, medium-depth chemical peels produce a more dramatic result in a single treatment than light peels. “Skin will be significantly smoother with an even tone and blemishes removed,” Ludwig says. This type of peel usually contains trichloroacetic acid (TCA) to penetrate the skin and remove layers below the epidermis. Peeling, redness, and swelling are all to be expected post-peel and can last three to 10 days.
DEEP CHEMICAL PEELS
Needless to say, deep chemical peels are the strongest and most invasive. They usually involve a potent formulation of TCA or phenol that can penetrate the deep layer of the dermis. As Ludwig shares, the depth allows them to produce “drastically smoother” and “youthful-looking” skin. “Deep peels can achieve amazing results for sun damage, scarring, and wrinkles,” she says. Due to their strength, however, deep peels can be painful and healing requires patience. Several weeks of downtime is needed, and full recovery could take weeks or months.
Professional Chemical Peel Treatments
Medical-grade chemical peels involve the application of a chemical solution to the face and (possibly) neck. The chemical solution is either applied lightly or rubbed more vigorously onto the skin using a gauze pad. During the application, you may experience a slight tingling (superficial to medium peels) or burning (deep peels). “I like to give my clients a mini fan which helps the tingling or burning sensation,” Ludwig shares. With certain types of chemical peels, the solution may need to be ‘neutralized’ after the appropriate time has elapsed, though most chemicals neutralize on their own.
Regardless of what strength peel you choose, patients are usually sent home with post-care instructions. “Make sure to discuss with your provider how to care for your skin after the peel,” Ludwig says. Even for the lightest peel, you’ll likely need to make changes to your skincare routine for a few days pre- and post-treatment. If you’re planning on a medium or deep peel, antiviral medication may be prescribed beforehand.
CHEMICAL PEEL SAFETY
Professional chemical peels are meant to be performed in a doctor’s office or a medical spa by a licensed skincare professional. As we’ve reported, the DIY dermatology trend that’s fueled by social media and social distancing had led some to try medical-grade treatments (like TCA peels) at home with dangerous and damaging results. “Beware of chemical solutions sold online, as they are usually sold illegally and can cause permanent damage to your skin,” Ludwig warns. “Chemical peels should be applied by a licensed professional.”
Professional Chemical Peels vs. At-Home Chemical Exfoliators
The main difference between a superficial in-office peel and chemical exfoliators or treatments you can find at, say Sephora, is that at-home solutions do not provide the same chemical concentration as their professional counterparts. While similar active ingredients may be found in both versions, the potency is quite different. As Ludwig explains, at-home percentages of glycolic acid, for example, max out around 10 percent, while medical-grade glycolic acids (applied by a professional) can reach as high as 70 percent.
At-Home Chemical Exfoliators
If you’re dealing with mild cases of uneven skin tone and texture or wish to maintain your complexion in between in-office appointments, at-home chemical exfoliators and enzyme treatments can impart a subtle and sustained glow with regular use.
When it comes to choosing a treatment, Ludwig suggests reading the label closely. “I recommend looking for brightening ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, and active enzymes such as pumpkin, papaya, and pineapple,” she explains. “Every ingredient serves a purpose, so do your homework when it comes to the ingredient list.”
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATOR SAFETY & RESULTS
While your skin likely won’t peel or flake the way it will after a professional treatment, irritation is possible with at-home exfoliating products. “Read all instructions carefully when it comes to at-home peels,” Ludwig cautions. “Most will ask you to wash it off after 10 to 15 minutes of application and gradually build up to leaving it on overnight.”
Another way to ensure your skin ends up radiant, not ruddy? “I recommend skipping out on ingredients like retinol and other active serums on days you choose to exfoliate at home,” Ludwig shares. She suggests exfoliating one to two times per week and alternating days with any actives already in your routine. “Less is more, in my opinion,” she says. “Over-exfoliating can disrupt our skin’s microbiome.”