Chemical peels are a type of skin treatment that remove the outermost layer of skin. They’re used to treat a variety of skin conditions, including acne, sun damage, and fine lines or wrinkles. There are many different types of chemical peels. Each type has its own benefits and risks. Your doctor will help you decide which one is right for you.
A superficial peel removes only the outermost layer of skin cells and leaves your skin looking fresh and healthy. This type is best for treating fine lines, wrinkles, and rough texture on your face or neck. A medium peel removes more layers of skin than a superficial peel but less than a deep peel. This type is good for treating acne scars or even acne itself if it’s not too severe yet. A deep peel removes the entire epidermis (outermost layer), all granular layers (middle layers), and most of the papillary dermis (deeper layer). This type is usually used on people who have severe acne scars that haven’t responded to other treatments like laser therapy or microdermabrasion yet — it can also be used to help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores or age spots
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What to know about chemical peel youtube
Clear skin. | Image: Goop
Supermodels say that the recipe for flawless healthy skin is peace of mind and 7 litres of water per day. But we both know that’s a lie. You can’t just wish those unclogged pores away; you have to fight them. That’s where chemical peels come in.
As opposed to physical peels and exfoliators, chemical peels are products containing active ingredients that gently remove dead skin cells, revealing newer, brighter, and firmer skin underneath.
Chemical peeling is great therapy for skin with acne and it doubles as a preventive measure for acne-prone skin. This is because the ‘’peeling’’ action wipes away dead skin cells and dirt that tends to clog pores and cause inflammation.
Before you dive ahead into improving your general skin health by using chemical peels, here are a few things you need to know;
What are Chemical Peels?
According to beauty experts, a chemical peel is an acid solution used in cosmetics to cause a controlled degree of injury to the skin surface during the process removing dead skin cells, oil and dirt, leaving your skin feeling new and tight.
In reality, a chemical peel does not involve any peeling motion. What it does instead is that it exfoliates your skin with acids such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and lactic acid. After application, they can be washed off with cool water.
Skincare | Image – Klaus Vedfelt – Getty Images
The action is experienced on a cellular level, so there is no real physical injury to your skin.
What are they used for?
People go for chemical peels for a lot of reasons. Here are a few;
- To treat acne scars
- To reduce the size of your pores
- To reduce wrinkling and fine lines around the eyes and mouth
- To treat hyperpigmentation
- For sunburns and melasma
- To lighten dark spots
To fast-healscars - To fight blackheads
- To improve overall skin texture
Types of Chemical Peels
There are generally three kinds of chemical peels based on intensity;
- Light peel,
- Medium peel
- and deep peels.
The choice of a peeling method depends on your skin needs. For basic skin maintenance, a light peel will do. For smoother and better skin texture, a medium peel will do. When it comes to scars and acne, a deep peel is advised.
Light peels may be achieved at home, but for the more intense medium and deep peels, it is wiser to book an appointment with your dermatologist to prevent harming your skin.
At-Home Peels vs Professional peels
While you could buy a peel pad from the store and do the work yourself, it usually is more relaxing to get a peel done at a spa, or with a doctor. Not only are they better at it, they usually incorporate some forms of massage or aftercare tips.
Preparing for a Chemical Peel
Before your chemical peel, it is important to not make any drastic changes to your skincare routine, as this may throw off your skin’s balance. However, reduce the frequency of exfoliation, especially if you use a physical exfoliator.
Since you’ll be applying acids to your skin, stay away from any bleaching products, including hair dyes and bleaches. Also, avoid waxing and depilating products.
Ensure that you share your routine with your cosmetologist or dermatologist.
What to expect during a peel?
While chemical peels are not associated with physical pulling on your skin, the acids cause a burning or stinging sensation on the skin. Often, you may need to be sedated before the procedure begins. At other times, the pain may be eased by a cold compress or proper air conditioning.
As a result, you may not be able to drive yourself home. Make arrangements after consulting your doctor.
Pros vs Cons
As expected, after a peel, your skin will feel soft and supple. On the downside, you will experience redness that lasts a period ranging from a few days to a whole month. During this period, it is crucial to keep the skin moisturised and protect it from the sun with a hydrating sunscreen. Your new skin will need a few weeks of pampering before your results start to show.
Other more serious side effects include;
- facial swelling
- dark or light patches on the skin
- infections from injury, especially for people with Herpes simplex
However, these side effects are rare and can be avoided by patch testing with a patch of skin before a peel.
Finally, when it comes to healing your skin, remember that these things take time. Be patient with it, spend time nurturing it, and watch it blossom into the skin you’ve always dreamt of.
Chemical peel at home for hyperpigmentation
If you’ve ever been hesitant to reach for a chemical exfoliant to help fade unwanted hyperpigmentation, there’s a good reason. “In general, chemical peels are intentionally irritating and not essential to balanced skin, unless indicated otherwise by a board-certified dermatologist for things like acne vulgaris or melasma,” dermatologist Dr. Ellen Marmur tells Elite Daily, adding, “Self-directed treatment is rife with overdoing it.” When needed, the best at-home chemical peels for hyperpigmentation contain a lower concentration of chemical exfoliants to lessen the chance of irritation. “If you’ve ever experienced hyperpigmentation, as I have in my 20s from patches of melasma on my upper lip and face, you want to do anything bionic to remove it,” Dr. Marmur says of her own experience. “But slow and steady is the only way to conquer hyperpigmentation, so be patient,” she advises, while stressing the importance of checking in with your dermatologist before using any at-home chemical exfoliants.
In addition to taking things slow and consulting with a professional, Dr. Marmur advises that it’s best not to exceed a concentration of 5% of the active ingredient in question. “Mandelic acid and tranexamic acid tend to be slow and steady for hyperpigmentation treatment at home, along with proper sun protection and LED green light,” shares Dr. Marmur. She also adds that other AHAs and BHAs, like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, are popular when it comes to at-home chemical treatments for hyperpigmentation.
As for the delivery method, Dr. Marmur confirms that mechanical exfoliants, like scrubs, should be avoided because they can worsen hyperpigmentation. “Liquids and serums applied and massaged into the skin with your fingertips work much better than pads, which increase waste,” she adds. “Never brush, scrub, or rub chemical exfoliants on skin that’s prone to excess pigment because this will backfire and put you back at square one,” she stresses. “Baby your skin, protect it well, and let your derm help you in your journey against hyperpigmentation.”
Keep scrolling to shop five of the best at-home treatments for hyperpigmentation, from serums to cleansers to face masks.
1. Best Tranexamic Acid Serum For Hyperpigmentation
Naturium Tranexamic Topical Acid 5%
AMAZON
Tranexamic acid is typically a well-tolerated ingredient when it comes to fading unwanted hyperpigmentation and preventing new dark spots from forming. Naturium’s Tranexamic Topical Acid 5% gives you a potent concentration of the active ingredient, while other effective brightening ingredients like kojic acid, licorice root extract, and niacinamide bolster the acid’s skin-evening effects. This combination makes it one of the best hyperpigmentation treatments you can buy for $20 — while plenty of hydrating ingredients like glycerin, panthenol, and hyaluronic acid prevent it from drying out your skin.
2. Best AHA Serum For Hyperpigmentation
Honest Beauty Resurfacing Serum
AMAZON
Honest Beauty’s Resurfacing Serum combines three AHAs to target unwanted hyperpigmentation: Glycolic, lactic, and citric acids. Additional ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe leaf juice all work to soothe and hydrate skin, while niacinamide offers double the skin care benefits by helping to treat hyperpigmentation and calm inflammation. At less than $25, it’s a great entry point into the world of chemical exfoliants. For best results, use it at night and don’t forget to apply sunscreen the next morning (as is the case with any AHA product).
3. Best BHA Exfoliant For Hyperpigmentation
Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant
AMAZON
Among the 40,000-plus five-star ratings on Amazon, you’ll find dozens of reviews that specifically mention how helpful Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is when it comes to treating hyperpigmentation. The tried-and-true formula uses a 2% concentration of salicylic acid to clear out congested pores and exfoliate dead skin cells, while green tea extract soothes and provides antioxidant protection. Because of salicylic acid’s pore-clearing benefits, this is a great choice if your primary skin concerns are hyperpigmentation and acne or blackheads.
Though it doesn’t have nearly as many Amazon reviews, the brand’s Discoloration Repair Serum, which features tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and bakuchiol extract, is another solid pick for treating hyperpigmentation.
4. Best Exfoliating Mask For Hyperpigmentation
Juice Beauty Green Apple Peel Full Strength Exfoliating Mask
AMAZON
If you like to use the occasional skin-pampering mask, Juice Beauty’s Green Apple Peel Full Strength Exfoliating Mask gives you a powerful chemical treatment in just 10 minutes. AHAs in the form of malic, glycolic, and lactic acids combine with the BHA salicylic acid to slough away dead skin cells and even out your skin. Bakuchiol and vitamin C give you more skin-brightening benefits, and aloe leaf juice, grape seed extract, and glycerin help with hydration. Though the mask is formulated with mostly naturally derived ingredients (many of which are organic), it still has the potential to cause irritation. Because of this, the brand suggests doing a patch test on your arm before putting the mask on your face.
5. Best Splurge
Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
AMAZON
This multi-purpose treatment can be used as a leave-on serum morning or night, or as a 15-minute mask that you rinse off if your skin is hyper-sensitive. Sunday Riley’s Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment is a cult favorite for its ability to improve the clarity and texture of your skin, while still being pretty gentle. In addition to the AHA lactic acid, licorice root extract works to brighten skin and fade unwanted hyperpigmentation, while soothing and hydrating ingredients like squalane, arnica, aloe leaf, and prickly pear keep the formula balanced. It offers both immediate and long-term benefits, and has a lightweight texture that layers under other products beautifully.
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Dermalogica Daily Glycolic Cleanser
AMAZON
Though not exactly a peel, a cleanser with chemical exfoliants, like Dermalogica’s Daily Glycolic Cleanser, is a great place to start because the active ingredient gets rinsed right off (as opposed to treatments and serums that are left on and therefore pose a higher risk of irritation). This cleanser uses glycolic acid to exfoliate away dead skin cells, the buildup of which can contribute to hyperpigmentation. You’ll also find jojoba seed oil, hyaluronic acid, glycerin, calendula, and allantoin in here to help condition skin and calm any signs of irritation.
At home chemical peel vs professional
Dullness. Dark spots. Acne scars. Fine lines and wrinkles. What do all of these skin concerns have in common? They can be treated with medical-grade chemical peels. Depending on your aesthetic goals and needs, chemical peels are available in an array of potencies and have the ability to resurface the skin for more even tone and texture. For those looking to achieve glow-inducing results at-home, less concentrated chemical exfoliators can slough away dead skin cells for a more radiant complexion. Here, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about in-office chemical peels and at-home chemical exfoliators.
What Is a Chemical Peel?
Professional chemical peels employ chemical solutions of varying strengths to target and remove the outer layers of the skin. “The benefits of a medical-grade chemical peel are endless,” says Lizette Ludwig, RN, an aesthetic nurse and injector in southern California. As she explains, they are a good option for anyone looking to address skin imperfections. “Chemical peels allow you to remove dead skin cells and address fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone in a safe and effective way,” she shares.
Professional chemical peels can be broken down into three categories:
- Superficial chemical peels
- Medium chemical peels
- Deep chemical peels
These classifications are based on the potency of the peels and the ingredients used in the chemical solution. “Ingredients found in medical-grade peels usually include alpha hydroxy acids (lactic acid and glycolic acid), beta hydroxy acids (salicylic acid), trichloroacetic acid (TCA), and phenol,” Ludwig says. Below is an overview of each:
SUPERFICIAL CHEMICAL PEELS
The lightest and gentlest of the group, superficial chemical peels remove the epidermis (i.e. top layer of the skin) and are generally tolerated by most skin tones. “These peels are usually made from alpha hydroxy or beta hydroxy acids, but they can also include enzymes or other natural exfoliating ingredients,” Ludwig notes. Because they focus on the epidermis, superficial peels provide a slight improvement to the skin and usually require a series of treatments for best results. Some mild dryness and flaking are a part of the healing process and can last for three to five days.
MEDIUM CHEMICAL PEELS
Falling in the middle of the scale, medium-depth chemical peels produce a more dramatic result in a single treatment than light peels. “Skin will be significantly smoother with an even tone and blemishes removed,” Ludwig says. This type of peel usually contains trichloroacetic acid (TCA) to penetrate the skin and remove layers below the epidermis. Peeling, redness, and swelling are all to be expected post-peel and can last three to 10 days.
DEEP CHEMICAL PEELS
Needless to say, deep chemical peels are the strongest and most invasive. They usually involve a potent formulation of TCA or phenol that can penetrate the deep layer of the dermis. As Ludwig shares, the depth allows them to produce “drastically smoother” and “youthful-looking” skin. “Deep peels can achieve amazing results for sun damage, scarring, and wrinkles,” she says. Due to their strength, however, deep peels can be painful and healing requires patience. Several weeks of downtime is needed, and full recovery could take weeks or months.
Professional Chemical Peel Treatments
Medical-grade chemical peels involve the application of a chemical solution to the face and (possibly) neck. The chemical solution is either applied lightly or rubbed more vigorously onto the skin using a gauze pad. During the application, you may experience a slight tingling (superficial to medium peels) or burning (deep peels). “I like to give my clients a mini fan which helps the tingling or burning sensation,” Ludwig shares. With certain types of chemical peels, the solution may need to be ‘neutralized’ after the appropriate time has elapsed, though most chemicals neutralize on their own.
Regardless of what strength peel you choose, patients are usually sent home with post-care instructions. “Make sure to discuss with your provider how to care for your skin after the peel,” Ludwig says. Even for the lightest peel, you’ll likely need to make changes to your skincare routine for a few days pre- and post-treatment. If you’re planning on a medium or deep peel, antiviral medication may be prescribed beforehand.
CHEMICAL PEEL SAFETY
Professional chemical peels are meant to be performed in a doctor’s office or a medical spa by a licensed skincare professional. As we’ve reported, the DIY dermatology trend that’s fueled by social media and social distancing had led some to try medical-grade treatments (like TCA peels) at home with dangerous and damaging results. “Beware of chemical solutions sold online, as they are usually sold illegally and can cause permanent damage to your skin,” Ludwig warns. “Chemical peels should be applied by a licensed professional.”
Professional Chemical Peels vs. At-Home Chemical Exfoliators
The main difference between a superficial in-office peel and chemical exfoliators or treatments you can find at, say Sephora, is that at-home solutions do not provide the same chemical concentration as their professional counterparts. While similar active ingredients may be found in both versions, the potency is quite different. As Ludwig explains, at-home percentages of glycolic acid, for example, max out around 10 percent, while medical-grade glycolic acids (applied by a professional) can reach as high as 70 percent.
At-Home Chemical Exfoliators
If you’re dealing with mild cases of uneven skin tone and texture or wish to maintain your complexion in between in-office appointments, at-home chemical exfoliators and enzyme treatments can impart a subtle and sustained glow with regular use.
When it comes to choosing a treatment, Ludwig suggests reading the label closely. “I recommend looking for brightening ingredients like AHAs, BHAs, vitamin C, and active enzymes such as pumpkin, papaya, and pineapple,” she explains. “Every ingredient serves a purpose, so do your homework when it comes to the ingredient list.”
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATOR SAFETY & RESULTS
While your skin likely won’t peel or flake the way it will after a professional treatment, irritation is possible with at-home exfoliating products. “Read all instructions carefully when it comes to at-home peels,” Ludwig cautions. “Most will ask you to wash it off after 10 to 15 minutes of application and gradually build up to leaving it on overnight.”
Another way to ensure your skin ends up radiant, not ruddy? “I recommend skipping out on ingredients like retinol and other active serums on days you choose to exfoliate at home,” Ludwig shares. She suggests exfoliating one to two times per week and alternating days with any actives already in your routine. “Less is more, in my opinion,” she says. “Over-exfoliating can disrupt our skin’s microbiome.”