Does Microneedling Help Wrinkles
Does Microneedling Help Wrinkles? While microneedling can be an effective way to smooth away wrinkles, it is not a new method of reducing fine lines and other signs of aging skin. This treatment has been performed by cosmetic surgeons for decades. However, it was only recently introduced to medical spas and other beauty clinics.
In this guide, we find out: Does Microneedling Help Wrinkles, how long does microneedling last, does microneedling work for hair, and microneedling benefits.
Before we go any further, let me just put this out there: You can group me in the “down for anything” category when we’re talking beauty. I’ll pretty much try whatever—especially if the alleged benefits aid one of my many skin concerns. At the top of my list is acne scars. These little marks decided to make their presence known in my life when I was 23. I’ve been dealing with them ever since and am game to try every fading, brightening, and lightening treatment under the sun. So after hearing countless praise for microneedling, I had to get the low-down for myself.
According to one study, almost 100 percent of microneedling participants reported a noticeable difference and 80 percent reported a vast improvement in the appearance of their acne scars after a treatment. This solid fact was all I needed to say, “Yes.” So I immediately booked my appointment for an in-office microneedling treatment.
Are you as curious as I was about microneedling? Ahead, board-certified dermatologists Dr. Bruce Katz and Dr. Sejal Shah, as well as esthetician Josie Holmes, explain everything you need to know about microneedling, the benefits, and their thoughts on at-home vs in-office treatments.
What Is Microneedling?
“Microneedling is a cosmetic procedure that uses a device with very thin, sharp needle tips to make punctures on the skin,” says Katz. “The functionality behind microneedling is that once the body feels the small pricks, it works to heal those cuts, resulting in a refreshed look; the punctures are only surface-level, so the pain is minimal.” This process works to rejuvenate your skin by boosting collagen production, which in turn reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and elevates the overall texture of your skin.
The particular microneedling treatment I underwent was done with a tool called the Vivace, a form of radiofrequency microneedling. “What excited me about the Vivace was, of course, the combination of radiofrequency and microneedling, but more so how precisely, cleanly, and deeply it could deliver both. Finally, you add in blue and red LED, and you have a trifecta of modalities to treat multiple skin concerns,” explains Gabe Lubin, founder of Cartessa Aesthetics. “Physicians can select the exact depth best for each patient’s skin type and condition and use robotic precision delivery to go as deep as 3.5 millimeters at 0.1-millimeter increments—no other device can.” Blue light is helpful for those who suffer from acne, as the light and heat target bacteria that cause breakouts.
[Editor’s Note: This illustration features a derma-roller, a tool that penetrates the skin more superficially than a professional microneedling pen, making it safer for at-home use].
Benefits of Microneedling
“Microneedling by itself has only modest effects, like improvement in skin texture and smoothness,” says Katz. “But when radiofrequency is added, microneedling can pack a bigger punch. Radiofrequency waves travel down the needles to heat the dermis, which can improve collagen production. Patients can see improvement in mild wrinkles, acne scars, and mild skin tightening when paired with radiofrequency. Microneedling in the dermatologist’s office is also done with sharper needles, which improves the results that patients see. You can also improve the results from microneedling by using a serum with the procedure; the serum will penetrate deeper in the skin for optimal results.”
Shah, who performed my procedure, told me the biggest benefit of microneedling is its ability to radically enhance the texture of your skin. And that goes for more than just the face—microneedling can be used to improve pigmentation, lip lines, wrinkles, acne scars, hair loss, stretch marks, post-pregnancy stretch marks, and to brighten the skin.
“Microneedling is a collagen-stimulating treatment great for general skin rejuvenation. It treats textural issues dealing with pores, acne scars, wrinkles, tightening sagging skin, and more,” Shah explained to me while my numbing cream settled in. Then we begin the treatment.
How to Prepare for Microneedling
If you’re using any intense topical treatments (such as those containing retinol), you’d be wise to discontinue use a few days before your microneedling treatment. Harsh products could aggravate the skin, so milder is the key. “In addition to having a cleansed and toned face, you should also avoid using retinol at least 48 hours prior and avoid direct sun exposure for about three days prior and three days following,” notes Holmes. “I would also advise against using any aggressive acids within the week of the procedure.”
You should arrive at your appointment with clean, dry skin (if not, the technician will wash your face so it’s clean before the procedure). Next, you’ll likely be slathered in numbing cream, so the pain won’t be quite so intense.
What to Expect from Microneedling
Does it hurt? After letting the numbing cream seep into my skin for a half-hour, having a bunch of needles continuously puncture my skin was honestly an easy process. So to definitively answer that, it doesn’t hurt, but it doesn’t feel good. In terms of pain, I experienced a tolerable treatment that lasted all of 20 minutes. To be real, it felt like five minutes, and by the end of it, I was fine. My forehead, hairline, and jawline areas were more sensitive than other areas. I barely felt the tool when it passed over my cheeks, which Shah surprisingly confirmed was the deepest level of depth.
After the microneedling, the procedure was followed up with a soothing serum and hydrating face mask that honestly felt like heaven. Ironically, even after the numbing cream wore off a couple of hours later, it didn’t feel like I had just been poked hundreds of times. Contrary to how scary this sounds, I experienced no pain whatsoever.
“The great thing about this treatment is there’s no significant downtime,” says Shah. “Afterward, there’s a little bit of redness and might be some areas of pinpoint bleeding, but really, it’s a no-downtime kind of treatment, so most people leave here a little bit red. A couple of hours later, you’re pretty much back to normal, and the next day, you can resume your normal skincare and normal activities.”
Side Effects
Immediately after my face mask, my cheeks and the top of my forehead were slightly red. This is a normal side effect of the minimal bleeding that happens during the treatment. I was shook because the only time I experience redness is after a crazy workout. But this went away in an hour. The treatment is essentially wounding your skin so it can feel new again.
Another disclaimer to note: I have extremely sensitive skin, so this may not happen to you. But by day two, my skin felt raw and itchy. It wasn’t unbearable but definitely uncomfortable. To combat this, I slathered on Cortizone Anti-Itch Cream ($7) in the morning and before I went to bed. I also noticed tiny imprint marks (on my forehead especially) from the needles.
By day four, my itchiness has almost completely gone away. The tiny post-procedural marks also faded more and more each day. These are normal side effects and should clear up in a few days.
“There are no risks or downtime if microneedling is performed properly,” notes Katz. “When microneedling is not performed properly, there are serious risks like infections, scarring, hyperpigmentation, and bruising.”
At-Home vs. In-Office Microneedling
“Microneedling in the doctor’s office can go a lot deeper than at-home devices and are thus more efficacious,” says Katz. “At-home devices have minimal benefits compared to in-office microneedling. The needles are less sharp than the in-office microneedles, so there is less risk of injury to the user at home. That being said, at-home microneedling has more risks than in-office. Say you have a zit on your face that you rupture during the at-home treatment—then you are potentially rolling the p.acnes bacteria all over the rest of your face, which can lead to increased acne. I say leave the microneedling to a dermatologist who can make sure you get the best results.”
Aftercare
Real talk, this lit-from-within glow is probably my favorite benefit of the procedure thus far. The photo on the left was taken right after I took off my sheet mask, while the photo on the right was taken the morning after my microneedling treatment. I was so impressed by the radiance of my skin. That cheekbone glow is not from highlighter, people.
I also was surprised by how soft my skin felt and how the size of my pores shrank significantly. I load up on hydrating oils every morning because of my inherently dry skin, and I’m addicted to how soft it leaves my skin feeling. I woke up with cushion-like skin without all of the extra work and loved it so much that I decided to go makeup-free until my skin completely healed.
Does Microneedling Help Wrinkles
Microneedling uses a tool that places acupuncture-size needles into the surface of your skin, promoting collagen production and natural healing, which makes skin more elastic and youthful. Since we are staying at home and wearing masks, it could be the right time to recover from this noninvasive and effective treatment. Kimberly Marlow of Sarasota Facial Aesthetics says microneedling can benefit anyone with wrinkles or scars.
“It is great at resurfacing skin, helping your body heal itself and minimize scars, including acne scars,” says Marlow.
How does the treatment work? When clients first arrive at Marlow’s office, they have the option to prep their skin with hyaluronic acid or platelet-rich plasma, which is drawn prior to their treatment. Using your own plasma as a healing agent can make it more effective without chemicals and additives, according to Marlow.
After that step, a disposable cartridge with 12 acupuncture-size needles is maneuvered in a cross-hatch motion around the face. The needles go from half a millimeter to 2.5 millimeters deep. The deeper the needles, the more collagen production occurs.
“There are different types of tools we use, depending on how aggressive you’d like the treatment,” says Marlow. “We have one tool with machine-driven force up to 12,000 revolutions per minute.”
How does microneedling improve skin? “The treatment creates micro injuries in the skin to induce the body’s natural healing process. The body will produce collagen to that affected area, laying down elastin fibers like a tight web of skin, “says Marlow. “This fills out wrinkles and lines, improving the look and texture of skin.”
While Botox injects a substance into your muscles, microneedling does not require the injection of additives and only affects the surface of the skin. Marlow says Botox can create a paralyzing effect, freezing muscles so you can’t frown. Over time, however, the effect will wear off.
Marlow says three microneedling treatments seems to be the “magic number,” with sessions scheduled a month apart. “Most people have three treatment and then quarterly maintenance,” says Marlow. “As we age, cellular turnover slows down, so we find we have to do treatments more often to wake collagen back up.”
A microneedling session takes between 45 minutes and one hour. Clients receive a powerful numbing cream, so you don’t feel pain. The aesthetician can add more cream as pain arises, but it should be minimal, like a pinch. After you are done with the treatment, it will feel like you have a sunburn for three or four days. Expect peeling and flaking of the skin as it heals. While you will notice results after the first week, clients should expect peak results after four weeks.
“Keeping your skin hydrated after treatments is really important, because it does dry out skin,” says Marlow. “We provide a take-home kit of products to use to hydrate and cleanse the skin properly.”
Microneedling can cost anywhere from $500 to $1,400 for a course of treatment, depending on how many treatments you get, and whether you are using platelet-rich plasma to enhance the healing process. Botox, in comparison, costs about $12 per unit, so microneedling is slightly more expensive.
“This treatment is like using stem cells in surgeries to speed up healing time,” says Marlow. “Using your body’s own plasma, injecting it intra-dermally and then receiving microneedling provides a greater chance of getting deep into the skin to do major repair work.”
how long does microneedling last
When I first began looking into microneedling, I had some of the same questions you likely have. The one I kept going back to before attending my consultation at the clinic was how long the results would last, and how many treatments I would need to keep those results.
I soon learned that there is no set time frame. Being a living tissue, skin is constantly changing, and every person’s skin is different. Your age, skin type, the areas being treated, and the conditions you are treating for, will determine how long your individual results will last.
That said, based on my own experiences and what I learned in my own research, I should be able to give you a rough idea of what to expect.
Understand What Microneedling Is
Before I go into how long your own personal results may last, let me explain a little bit about what microneedling is.
Also called Collagen Induction Therapy, microneedling is used to correct a large variety of skin issues, including acne, acne scars, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, pore size, loose skin, and various other blemishes. It does this by creating hundreds of tiny micro-injuries to the topmost layer of skin on your face.
This kicks your body’s natural healing process into gear, forcing it to produce more collagen and elastin. Since it is a very gentle procedure, causing very little swelling, redness, and little to no bruising, it is a great method for correcting skin issues without causing further damage to your skin. That said, it will need to be repeated on a regular basis to maximize the effects.
Notable effects and benefits of microneedling include:
If you are worried about any pain, I assure you that microneedling does not hurt. The clinician performing your treatment will use a numbing gel on your face to limit discomfort, but you may still feel some tingling. Afterwards, the skin may feel sore, but it will feel no worse than a mild sunburn.
Expect Initial Results Within a Week
Some people (myself included) have reported seeing initial results just a week after their first treatment. These initial results may be skin tone evening up, reduced pore visibility, or a small reduction in the visibility of acne.
However, do not get discouraged if that is not the case for you. Every person’s skin is different, and some will heal faster than others. Also, depending on the severity of your issues, you may not see results until you have received two or three treatments.
After your first treatment, you will receive a list of post-treatment instructions to follow. I cannot stress enough that you should follow these instructions(!), as they are designed to help your skin heal so that you can get the results you wanted from the treatment.
Expect Long-term Treatment for Long-term Results
The effects of the initial round of microneedling treatments last on average between four to six weeks, for most people. That said, the amount of treatments and exact time frame will depend on your issues, age, skin type, and how your skin responds to the treatment.
However long your individual results last, the effects of microneedling are not permanent, so you will need to continue taking treatments in order to maintain those effects. Once maximum results have been reached, your clinician will start scheduling maintenance treatments, which may be anywhere between six to twelve months apart. I have heard of some people going as long as 18 months between treatments.
For myself, I was specifically treating my acne and minimal scarring, so I only needed three treatments initially and was able to go six weeks between treatments. Not only did it clear up my acne, but the treatments have greatly improved the overall tone and texture on my face. Now I only need to get treatments twice a year.
Schedule Your Consultation Today
Microneedling is the most effective facial treatment I have tried and is the only one that gives me the results I need. It is minimally invasive and has very little downtime. The best part? There are no chemicals used, as it all relies on your body’s natural healing abilities.
When you feel ready, I encourage you to contact the Fairfax Botox Clinic, Elume Medspa, in Fairfax, VA. This is where I go for my treatments and I can’t recommend them enough! I was nervous at first, but they are easy to work with and only want what is best for you.
Schedule a consultation today to discuss your skin’s needs with a licensed skin care professional. Based on the factors I mentioned earlier (age, skin type, etc.), they will determine how many treatments you likely need and how often you need them.
At Elume Med Spa, we are passionate about helping our customers look and feel their best. That’s why we offer a range of high-quality skincare products that are designed to deliver real results. From cleansers to serums, our online store has everything you need to create an at-home skincare routine that will leave you feeling confident and radiant. Plus, our expert team has carefully selected each and every product to ensure that you are getting the best possible care. Shop now and discover the benefits of our top-rated products for yourself.
does microneedling work for hair
After trying countless shampoos that claim to thicken your fine locks, serums designed to combat your excessive shedding, and even outlandish at-home hair growth treatments from TikTok — all to no avail — you might be looking to take your anti-hair-loss efforts to the next level. One option: A microneedling treatment for your scalp, performed in-office by a hair care pro. But what does the procedure involve, exactly, and can it actually help you get the Rapunzel-like locks you’ve been longing for?
Here, experts break down everything you need to know microneedling for hair loss — including the benefits, risks, and the treatment process — before you book an appointment.
What is microneedling for hair loss?
A microneedling for hair loss treatment is exactly what it sounds like: A hair care professional will run a manual or motorized device equipped with fine, tiny needles across the scalp, which will penetrate just into the upper portion of the dermis — the layer of skin where the hair follicle lies, says Rae Lynne Kinler, M.D., an expert hair restoration surgeon and the clinical director of Ziering Medical of Greenwich, Connecticut. All that puncturing can help stimulate blood flow and collagen production, but more significantly, it creates “microchannels” that enable topical treatments for hair loss, such as minoxidil and finasteride, to be more effective, she says. “It helps the absorption of topical treatments to be a little bit better because they’re not being blocked by the skin,” she explains. “…It actually gets into the level of the hair follicle and can potentially make it start thickening up the existing hair, putting it into an active growth phase, making it stronger, getting it longer, and making it a little bit darker in color.” (FTR, the color change is extremely subtle, if detectable at all — you won’t arrive as a blonde and leave as a brunette.)
The minimally invasive procedure is also believed to cause the scalp to release platelets and hair growth factors in the traumatized areas, which help thicken the existing follicles, adds Andrew Kashian, the founder of Solve Clinics, a hair transplant clinic in Chicago. “With microneedling, people think, ‘Oh, there’s new follicles growing,’ but oftentimes that’s not the case,” he says. “It’s the thin follicles in that area that are getting thicker and back to their normal, healthy state, so it gives off the aesthetic of new growth when in reality it’s just a thickening of what’s already there.” To enhance the process, some clinics will also combine the treatment with injections of a patient’s own platelet-rich plasma, which is thought to release growth factors needed in the wound healing process and, in turn, may promote hair growth, says Kashian. “The end result is your hair gets thicker faster, and the treatment outcome is significantly more substantial,” he says. (
Who could benefit from microneedling for hair loss?
If you’re dealing with general hair loss or thinning, or you’re suffering from androgenetic alopecia — a genetic hair loss disorder that’s caused by an excessive response to the hormones androgens — a microneedling treatment might do you some good, says Kashian. “A lot of times we use it where there’s those little, fine, miniaturized hairs — or baby hairs — that are on their way out,” adds Dr. Kinler. “Essentially, they’re the ones getting ready to be lost permanently, [but] we can turn that around and make it a fuller, stronger, thicker hair.”
People who have already lost all their hair in a particular area or on the entire scalp aren’t going to see much, if any, benefit, she says. In those cases, the bulbs of the hair follicles — which receive signals to form a new hair and grow it up out of the scalp — may not be producing hair, or they might have “shriveled up and died” entirely, says Dr. Kinler. Since microneedling increases the density of existing hair — but doesn’t stimulate brand new follicle growth — doing the treatment in a bald area is “a lost cause,” adds Kashian. Instead, hair transplant surgery, which involves removing small pieces of scalp with hair follicles from a donor site and grafting them on a bald or thinning area of the scalp, is your best bet, agree Dr. Kinler and Kashian. (
Unsurprisingly, microneedling isn’t recommended for folks who already have a full head of hair, says Dr. Kinler. “You can actually damage the hair that’s on the outside of the scalp and you can damage the hair follicles underneath the scalp, especially if the needle depth is too much,” she explains. (FTR, the needles usually penetrate 1.5 millimeters into the skin, says Kashian.)
What are the risks of microneedling for hair loss?
As with any procedure that involves cutting the skin and creating an open wound, microneedling for hair loss does come with the risk of infection, says Kashian. That said, “the risk of infection for microneedling is extremely small,” he explains. “The size of those incisions is so little that, in our years doing thousands of these in our clinic, we’ve never seen an infection from one of our patients.”
A larger concern, particularly if you receive the treatment at a medical spa or a clinic that doesn’t specialize in microneedling for hair, is permanent hair damage and loss, says Dr. Kinler. Providers who aren’t trained in the procedure may increase the needle depth too much, which can cause damage to the hair bulb when it enters the scalp, she explains. “I have seen patients come in with superficial breakage of the hair shaft at the scalp, which obviously takes a while to regenerate,” she says. “But I’ve also seen patients with areas of patchy, permanent loss where the needle has penetrated [too deep] and actually knocked off the hair bulb so it’s no longer able to regenerate a new hair shaft. Then they have patchy areas of baldness that they didn’t have before, and then there’s really nothing much you can do with that other than transplantation to fix those areas.”
For that same reason, Dr. Kinler cautions against giving yourself an at-home microneedling treatment for hair loss. “There’s a higher risk of causing damage to the hair, so I don’t recommend that option,” she says. “I prefer for it to be done in a qualified, trained physician’s office who deals specifically with hair.” (Wait, should you be dermarolling your face at home?)
Given the potential risks and the availability of “superior” hair loss treatments, Dr. Kinler generally steers clear of microneedling for hair loss or thinning. Instead, she often recommends KeraLase, a laser treatment available at dermatologists and hair restoration clinics that creates those same beneficial microchannels by disrupting the water bonds in your scalp — no needles required. “It doesn’t disrupt the hair follicle, it doesn’t disrupt the bulb, and it doesn’t disrupt the external hair shaft,” she says. “…It’s a very popular treatment that we offer, and we don’t see any of that risk of damaging the external hair or the hair follicle. We don’t see any patchy hair loss or permanent hair loss with this treatment.”
Compared to microneedling, Dr. Kinler says KeraLase is easier to tolerate, particularly in the sensitive areas of the scalp, such as the front hairline and the sides of the head. The treatments take about the same amount of time to complete, though KeraLase is given more regularly; the first four treatments are spread four weeks apart, and your provider may recommend additional treatments roughly a year later, she explains.
What to Expect During a Microneedling for Hair Loss Treatment
If you chat with a hair loss expert and decide microneedling is your best course of action, there are a few things you’ll want to know ahead of your appointment. Before your microneedling for hair loss treatment, make sure your scalp is freshly cleaned and free of any hair products, as they may get into the wounds and potentially cause an infection, says Kashian. At the clinic, your hair care professional might apply a topical or local anesthetic to ease any pain, then start running the roller over the affected areas to create microtrauma, says Dr. Kinler. The needles will feel similar to a rubber band snapping against your skin, and you’ll experience some redness and bleeding, says Kashian. All in all, the procedure typically takes just 20 to 30 minutes, adds Dr. Kinler. A microneedling treatment with PRP injections, however, might take 45 to 60 minutes, says Kashian.
If your provider recommends applying a topical hair growth treatment, you’ll wait 24 hours after the procedure to do so, as the retinoic acid in those products can cause irritation if applied before the scalp is healed, says Dr. Kinler. You’ll also want to ditch the shampoo, conditioner, and alcohol-based hair products for two to three days following a microneedling treatment, she says. “We want to give the skin a chance to heal, and we don’t want to introduce anything that may be detrimental to that,” she explains. “We also want to give the growth factors a chance to get fully absorbed into the scalp.” It’s also key to keep your scalp out of direct sunlight, as it could lead to hypersensitivity and hyperpigmentation, she adds.
Most importantly, remember that this isn’t a one-and-done treatment. “Consistency is key — this isn’t an overnight fix,” says Kashian. “You can’t microneedle once, wait a month, and think your hair is basically going to get thick. You have to stick with it.” For the first six to eight months, you’ll likely need to get a treatment every four to six weeks, then once every six to 12 months after that, says Dr. Kinler. How long you continue the treatment after those first eight months is entirely up to you. “We’ll take photographs so we can see the changes that the patients are having, but sometimes they either just don’t feel like they’re getting enough of a result and then they opt to discontinue the treatment, while some patients come in once a year — they feel like the benefits of the treatment are lasting that long,” she says.
Regardless of how many rounds of microneedling you receive, you may not see an improvement in your hair loss or thinning if you don’t apply those topical growth treatments, such as minoxidil or finasteride. “The only time I’ve ever really seen microneedling help is when you combine it with grow factor therapy, which is something that is external that is applied to the scalp topically after the little microchannels are created,” says Dr. Kinler. And research has yet to show the treatment’s effects without these topicals: While a 2016 study on mice found that microneedling on its own increased hair growth, the available human studies that demonstrate the procedure’s benefits all involved treating participants simultaneously with microneedling and topical growth factor treatments.
So, should you get microneedling for hair loss?
If you’re dealing with hair loss or thinning, microneedling can be an effective way of boosting your locks’ thickness and giving you the look of a full, luscious head of hair, says Kashian. That said, the treatment doesn’t resolve the issue at the root of your hair loss, and neither microneedling or KeraLase will stop the progression of it, adds Dr. Kinler. “These things are helpful to improve the existing hair on the head — make it fuller, make it thicker,” she explains. “They just give [the patient] a little bit more confidence, either as they wait for surgery or to become a candidate for surgery. Even if they say they never want to have a procedure, [these treatments can] help move them along in terms of improving their confidence and the appearance of their hair.”
microneedling benefits
Before we go any further, let me just put this out there: You can group me in the “down for anything” category when we’re talking beauty. I’ll pretty much try whatever—especially if the alleged benefits aid one of my many skin concerns. At the top of my list is acne scars. These little marks decided to make their presence known in my life when I was 23. I’ve been dealing with them ever since and am game to try every fading, brightening, and lightening treatment under the sun. So after hearing countless praise for microneedling, I had to get the low-down for myself.
According to one study, almost 100 percent of microneedling participants reported a noticeable difference and 80 percent reported a vast improvement in the appearance of their acne scars after a treatment. This solid fact was all I needed to say, “Yes.” So I immediately booked my appointment for an in-office microneedling treatment.
Are you as curious as I was about microneedling? Ahead, board-certified dermatologists Dr. Bruce Katz and Dr. Sejal Shah, as well as esthetician Josie Holmes, explain everything you need to know about microneedling, the benefits, and their thoughts on at-home vs in-office treatments.
What Is Microneedling?
“Microneedling is a cosmetic procedure that uses a device with very thin, sharp needle tips to make punctures on the skin,” says Katz. “The functionality behind microneedling is that once the body feels the small pricks, it works to heal those cuts, resulting in a refreshed look; the punctures are only surface-level, so the pain is minimal.” This process works to rejuvenate your skin by boosting collagen production, which in turn reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and elevates the overall texture of your skin.
The particular microneedling treatment I underwent was done with a tool called the Vivace, a form of radiofrequency microneedling. “What excited me about the Vivace was, of course, the combination of radiofrequency and microneedling, but more so how precisely, cleanly, and deeply it could deliver both. Finally, you add in blue and red LED, and you have a trifecta of modalities to treat multiple skin concerns,” explains Gabe Lubin, founder of Cartessa Aesthetics. “Physicians can select the exact depth best for each patient’s skin type and condition and use robotic precision delivery to go as deep as 3.5 millimeters at 0.1-millimeter increments—no other device can.” Blue light is helpful for those who suffer from acne, as the light and heat target bacteria that cause breakouts.
[Editor’s Note: This illustration features a derma-roller, a tool that penetrates the skin more superficially than a professional microneedling pen, making it safer for at-home use].
Benefits of Microneedling
“Microneedling by itself has only modest effects, like improvement in skin texture and smoothness,” says Katz. “But when radiofrequency is added, microneedling can pack a bigger punch. Radiofrequency waves travel down the needles to heat the dermis, which can improve collagen production. Patients can see improvement in mild wrinkles, acne scars, and mild skin tightening when paired with radiofrequency. Microneedling in the dermatologist’s office is also done with sharper needles, which improves the results that patients see. You can also improve the results from microneedling by using a serum with the procedure; the serum will penetrate deeper in the skin for optimal results.”
Shah, who performed my procedure, told me the biggest benefit of microneedling is its ability to radically enhance the texture of your skin. And that goes for more than just the face—microneedling can be used to improve pigmentation, lip lines, wrinkles, acne scars, hair loss, stretch marks, post-pregnancy stretch marks, and to brighten the skin.
“Microneedling is a collagen-stimulating treatment great for general skin rejuvenation. It treats textural issues dealing with pores, acne scars, wrinkles, tightening sagging skin, and more,” Shah explained to me while my numbing cream settled in. Then we begin the treatment.
How to Prepare for Microneedling
If you’re using any intense topical treatments (such as those containing retinol), you’d be wise to discontinue use a few days before your microneedling treatment. Harsh products could aggravate the skin, so milder is the key. “In addition to having a cleansed and toned face, you should also avoid using retinol at least 48 hours prior and avoid direct sun exposure for about three days prior and three days following,” notes Holmes. “I would also advise against using any aggressive acids within the week of the procedure.”
You should arrive at your appointment with clean, dry skin (if not, the technician will wash your face so it’s clean before the procedure). Next, you’ll likely be slathered in numbing cream, so the pain won’t be quite so intense.
What to Expect from Microneedling
Does it hurt? After letting the numbing cream seep into my skin for a half-hour, having a bunch of needles continuously puncture my skin was honestly an easy process. So to definitively answer that, it doesn’t hurt, but it doesn’t feel good. In terms of pain, I experienced a tolerable treatment that lasted all of 20 minutes. To be real, it felt like five minutes, and by the end of it, I was fine. My forehead, hairline, and jawline areas were more sensitive than other areas. I barely felt the tool when it passed over my cheeks, which Shah surprisingly confirmed was the deepest level of depth.
After the microneedling, the procedure was followed up with a soothing serum and hydrating face mask that honestly felt like heaven. Ironically, even after the numbing cream wore off a couple of hours later, it didn’t feel like I had just been poked hundreds of times. Contrary to how scary this sounds, I experienced no pain whatsoever.
“The great thing about this treatment is there’s no significant downtime,” says Shah. “Afterward, there’s a little bit of redness and might be some areas of pinpoint bleeding, but really, it’s a no-downtime kind of treatment, so most people leave here a little bit red. A couple of hours later, you’re pretty much back to normal, and the next day, you can resume your normal skincare and normal activities.”
Side Effects
Immediately after my face mask, my cheeks and the top of my forehead were slightly red. This is a normal side effect of the minimal bleeding that happens during the treatment. I was shook because the only time I experience redness is after a crazy workout. But this went away in an hour. The treatment is essentially wounding your skin so it can feel new again.
Another disclaimer to note: I have extremely sensitive skin, so this may not happen to you. But by day two, my skin felt raw and itchy. It wasn’t unbearable but definitely uncomfortable. To combat this, I slathered on Cortizone Anti-Itch Cream ($7) in the morning and before I went to bed. I also noticed tiny imprint marks (on my forehead especially) from the needles.
By day four, my itchiness has almost completely gone away. The tiny post-procedural marks also faded more and more each day. These are normal side effects and should clear up in a few days.
“There are no risks or downtime if microneedling is performed properly,” notes Katz. “When microneedling is not performed properly, there are serious risks like infections, scarring, hyperpigmentation, and bruising.”
At-Home vs. In-Office Microneedling
“Microneedling in the doctor’s office can go a lot deeper than at-home devices and are thus more efficacious,” says Katz. “At-home devices have minimal benefits compared to in-office microneedling. The needles are less sharp than the in-office microneedles, so there is less risk of injury to the user at home. That being said, at-home microneedling has more risks than in-office. Say you have a zit on your face that you rupture during the at-home treatment—then you are potentially rolling the p.acnes bacteria all over the rest of your face, which can lead to increased acne. I say leave the microneedling to a dermatologist who can make sure you get the best results.”
Aftercare
Real talk, this lit-from-within glow is probably my favorite benefit of the procedure thus far. The photo on the left was taken right after I took off my sheet mask, while the photo on the right was taken the morning after my microneedling treatment. I was so impressed by the radiance of my skin. That cheekbone glow is not from highlighter, people.
I also was surprised by how soft my skin felt and how the size of my pores shrank significantly. I load up on hydrating oils every morning because of my inherently dry skin, and I’m addicted to how soft it leaves my skin feeling. I woke up with cushion-like skin without all of the extra work and loved it so much that I decided to go makeup-free until my skin completely healed.